// SR Lab // Log #001 // Hands-On DIY Test kit

Onboard Camera

MOTORCYCLE CAMERA SETUP // REAL-WORLD TESTED // CLEAN INSTALL

SR Lab Log #004

Eyes on the road — and behind you. Installing a front and rear camera on the bike is one of the most underrated safety upgrades you can do. Here's the full breakdown.

// SR-LAB-004 // Camera Mod // Rider Safety

Why I Installed a Camera

After witnessing a few close calls on the road and hearing stories from fellow riders who got into disputes with no evidence to back them up, I decided it was time. A camera doesn't prevent accidents — but it protects you when the unexpected happens. Evidence is everything.

The Install Process

Step 1

Choose mounting points — handlebar clamp for front, rear grab bar for back cam

Step 2

Route power wire through the fairings to the fuse box — clean and hidden

Step 3

Tap into an ignition-switched circuit so camera powers on/off with bike

Step 4

Angle calibration — ensure both lenses cover the correct field of view

Step 5

Test ride and review footage for vibration, glare, and coverage blind spots

Parts & Tools Required

// Bill of Materials

Front + rear action cameras (or dedicated bike cam unit)
RAM mount or aluminium handlebar clamp
Mini USB/hardwire kit with low-profile fuse tap
Zip ties, heat shrink tubing, electrical tape
Micro SD cards (high endurance, Class 10 minimum)

// PRO TIP: Use a high-endurance SD card rated for dash cam use. Regular cards die fast from the constant write cycles. Don't cheap out here.

Real World Notes

The install took about 3 hours, most of which was routing the cables neatly through the fairings. The result looks clean and the camera boots up the moment you turn the key. Loop recording means you never have to manually manage footage — and if something happens, the file is there waiting.

Total investment: Well worth every dollar. Peace of mind on every ride.

Detailed Field Notes: Camera Install

Mod Classification: Safety / Evidence

[WIRING] The hardest part is routing the wire without cutting fairings. Take time to find existing grommets and cable runs. The fuse box tap is clean — no cutting of factory wires needed.

[MOUNT CHOICE] RAM mounts are pricey but vibration-dampened. Generic clamps work but expect jello footage at higher RPMs. Invest in quality mounts if the camera is a priority.

[REAR CAM] Rear camera angle is critical. Aim too high and you film the sky. Too low and you lose the following traffic. Spend time getting this right before buttoning everything up.

Final Assessment

Difficulty: 3/5 — Mainly the wiring routing
Time Required: ~3 hours
Would Recommend: Absolutely — Day 1 mod

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